I had the pleasure of meeting María Amézola from Bodegas Amézola de la Mora in La Rioja, during a wine portfolio tasting. I got a tip from Master of Wine Martin Moran, who told me that I shouldn't miss one of Maria's white wines. I knew I was in for a treat and it certainly did not disappoint -Thank you for the tip, Martin!
I sampled 3 wines from Bodegas Amézola and I was delighted to get to know María and the history of her family winery.
Bodegas Amézola de la Mora is a 5th generation family winery in La Rioja, Spain led by 2 wonderful women who also happen to be sisters, María and Cristina.
A tragic accident back in 1999 meant that the Amézola sisters became the youngest winemakers in Spain.
Join me to discover María's wine journey, her Irish roots and the fantastic stories about her wines.
María, how did you get started in wine?
My sister and I grew up among vineyards. The family winery belonged to my great-great-grandfather who founded it in 1816. We are the 5th generation. When I was 7 years old I remember playing among the vineyards with my sister, and even helping to graft some of the vines. As teenagers, we both worked in the winery helping in the warehouse or bottling the wine to earn our pay. We also got to travel with our parents to national and international wine fairs. You could say that both my sister and I have "breathed wine” since we were little.
On a professional level, I started working in the winery at the beginning of 2006. My father unfortunately passed away in a traffic accident in 1999. My sister and I were 17 and 18 years old respectively. We became the youngest winemakers in Spain. My mother, who was a housewife, was in charge of leading the winery until we both finished our university studies and were ready to join the Bodega.
We were eager to gain experience in the industry outside the family business but it was not an option. My mother was old and it was time for her to retire so we needed to step in.
From the wines in your portfolio, is there one that you reach for the most? For example, the wine you drink the most and why?
It is very difficult to choose a single wine, it is like trying to pick a favourite between my three children. You love them all equally, they are different but very special.
When it comes to wine, I can think of one. I am a woman who prefers red wines over white wines. However, and precisely for that reason, I am going to tell you: The Iñigo Amezola 2019, white.
It is a very unique wine, out of the ordinary. I don't think you can find many wines that taste like this one. I like describing it as a white wine with the body of a red. It is a wine that has infinite nuances; it is surprising how different it is in the mouth and on the nose and how it evolves in the glass as we taste it. It is undoubtedly a wine with an overwhelming personality.
It is also a tremendously versatile wine. Because of its complexity, it can be enjoyed alone or it can be paired with dishes that go beyond the typical ones associated with white wines. I particularly love it with sea and mountain dishes or risotto.
On the day we met, we tasted 3 wines. Can you choose one and tell us its story?
We tasted:
a) Solar Gran Reserva 2014 |Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, 14% abv
b) Iñigo Tinto 2019 | Tempranillo, 14% abv
c) Iñigo Blanco 2019 | Viura, 13.5% abv.
Without a doubt, I will tell you about the Iñigo Amezola Tinto (red) which is a wine with a lot of history and a very special name.
My father made Rioja wines in the traditional style; Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. When my mother passed away, my sister and I set out to make the best wine in the winery. To do so, we chose the best vineyard in the State, the San Quiles which is located in one of the highest points of La Rioja Alta at 550 metres above sea level. This vineyard is roughly 8 hectares in size and produces about 6,000 bottles annually of single varietal Tempranillo.
This is a wine with a curated process in honour of our father who was called Iñigo. We know it is a name that is not easy to pronounce abroad because of the [ñ] letter that we have only in the Spanish alphabet, but we could not call it differently. It is a wine that undergoes malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels and remains in barrels for 6-8 months depending on the vintage. During this time, we carry out a weekly batonage of all the barrels. It is a wine that we treat with great care and affection.
What do you think is the most interesting thing happening right now, in the world of wine?
This is a very interesting question. I think several trends deserve a mention. The expansion of organic viticulture, the necessity to adapt to climate change, the focus on the environment as a priority, the proliferation of minority varietals and the return to native varietals, the consolidation of new post-pandemic consumer habits and the consolidation of wine tourism are certainly some of the trends that I would not fail to mention.
At the particular level of our Rioja DOCa (Denominacion de Origen Calificada in Spanish, -Quality Denomination of Origin) we have many challenges and interesting things happening that could be a turning point for our region. It is a DOCa with a lot of tradition and history that is going through a phase in which it has to rethink and rebuild its strategy for the future. Some players in this region have been saying it for a long time; we should not be afraid to try to change things up.
*This map will help you get a snapshot of the region. La Rioja is split into 3 sub-regions: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental.
This map is from "Explore Wine Maps, World Edition" by Amble Wine. This book has become our bible for wine maps. If you want yours, we have a discount for you. Enter the code THEWINESNUG at checkout when purchasing at the website.**
We are happy to pass on a message to the people in Ireland. María, what would you like to tell them about your wines?
I am proud to be able to bring our wines to Ireland; actually, we have roots in the country. My grandfather on my mom’s side was Irish, hence our second surname is Downes, my full name is María Amézola Downes. We feel very close to the Irish and for us being in Ireland is like being at home.
We can only say that we make wines family style and with family flavour. We enjoy making wines that are local and artisanal, with no frills. Our wines are meant to be enjoyed and they have a common denominator, our terroir. Also, we own our vineyards and we grow our own grapes for all of our wines -something unusual in Rioja- we don’t source grapes from third parties. We believe that this is noticeable when you taste each of our wines. We really enjoy our work, making wines we love, and we can only hope that you enjoy them just as much as we do.
If you want to try María's wines, you can purchase them in Ireland at The Wine Pair, O'Reillys, Cabinteely, Hole in the Wall, Bradleys Cork, Emilie's Glenbeigh or directly from their importers Boutique Wines.
Stay tuned for more interviews with wonderful women in wine and don't forget to follow The Wine Snug in social for all things wine.
--This post is not sponsored. I genuinely recommend these wines... I'm still dreaming of that Iñigo Blanco, need to get myself a bottle!--
Bio
María Amezola Downes is one of the 2 Spanish women leading the Bodega Amézola de la Mora in La Rioja. She studied Law & Management and has an MBA from the IESE in Barcelona. She worked for Ernst & Young as a consultant for food companies and since 2006 she has been in charge of promoting the Amézola de la Mora wines worldwide.
The winery has 60 hectares of vineyards which are all located around a Château, drawing inspiration from the French style. This bodega puts the vines at the heart of its activity, taking great care of both vineyards and grapes. The characteristics of their soils (clay-calcareous, stony and limestone) allow them to cultivate Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Viura.
To know more about Bodegas Amezola de la Mora you can visit their website.
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